This camera work well and is easy to use. The build quality is good and the battery holds a decent charge. The only issue I have is the the ring to lock on to the eyepiece is a little tight when turning it. But that's just my personal preference it doesn't effect how the camera work's.

When I had an issue with the camera, the customer service was excellent. Without question, they promptly sent me a new camera!

I haven’t had to use it at this point since I use a slow ISO film to begin with. Will use it in the future though I am sure.

I use this camera for work more than anything else. Simple operation. Good battery life. The picture is good and doesn't try to crap out on you the moment you move it so it can try to auto focus. Works great for looking inside cylinder heads. I would not try to submerge it in anything though.

I use my drones for my film work for YouTube and I'm always looking for the perfect open and close cinematic shot. These fit and work perfectly and help me get this Hollywood shot. Bonus: - Also free blades.
Very well made and very easy to attach and remove. You don't have to worry about falling off during flight as they are very safe.

This worked fine for me. They block all light that passes through them when two filters are placed at 90 degrees to each other. I'm not sure I like the "sticky" surface that comes automatically to one side of the film, but I'll deal with it. For those who fail to block all light, it is important to note that once light is polarized, it can become unpolarized once it passes through another medium. So if the protective films on the polarizing film are not removed, they will not work properly. The "sticky" side will also only slightly disturb the polarization, so it's important to take this into account in your setup as well.

Unlikely you'd want to use it with an old EOS film camera, but if you know it didn't work for me, I tried using it on an old EOS 600 film camera and it didn't work. (It focuses but didn't let the camera pick up the shot - manual focus or autofocus) *** It worked fine on a Canon 5D Mark 3. *** I have sold my digital canon gear so I just wanted this inexpensive 35mm lens to go with my inexpensive film camera but unfortunately it didn't work for me. Unfortunately I had to send it back.

I simply copied the complete text from my YouTube video for you. Who prefers to see the video "Dji Osmo Action 3 I without ND filter in automatic mode and in PRO mode?" Enter on YouTube. Why do you need filters? It's a valid question, of course, who hasn't asked themselves that? I think everyone has stumbled across this topic and this question... The answer to this is very simple and surprising in view of this video - No, you don't need filters on a camera, it works without it...***but...It would be more an advantage as a disadvantage to have and use some. Anyone who works a lot on the water and beach, like me, or of course, like most of you, vacations there, quickly learns to appreciate filters. First, they are a very good protection against dust or sand from the beach. Of course, a filter also protects the lens, the lens in the camera. So much for the obvious, but the main job of a filter is to let less light through onto the sensor, it's like putting sunglasses on the camera. This has the advantage that longer exposure times can be achieved. It helps the camera to adjust and react faster in automatic mode when controlling the exposure time or white balance. Or if you prefer to work in Pro mode, you will quickly find that the exposure, the shutter, generally works better. In general, filters make the water smoother, and there are also fewer reflections. Or if you take great landscape shots, the sky immediately looks a little bluer. Filters also enhance the colors generally, making them more vibrant. DJI has, in my opinion, excellent colors and that in connection with a filter automatically makes the recordings **//LVL UP. This saves you having to color the film material because it comes out of the camera almost finished. Of course, the full professionals among you have other requirements and such, but I'm talking here for the normal user, like you and me... There are different ND filters. It starts **in my set at ND 4 and goes up to ND32. The ND4 filter lets only ¼ of the light through to the sensor and the ND32 filter 1/32. I use my filters like this... in the morning ND4, towards noon ND8, noon to afternoon ND16 and afternoon to late afternoon when the sun is very high ND32, and then in the evening just before the golden hour I go down again with the filter strengths. Over time, you will figure out when and where which filter is best used, is not witchcraft, even if many want you to believe that. Especially in summer or in winter when there is snow, I think it should at least be almost mandatory to have ND filters to have. If you like to film in Pro mode and work a lot with it, it is almost a must to work with filters alone because otherwise you cannot work with exposures in a meaningful way.... Especially in summer or in winter when there is snow, I think it should at least be almost mandatory to have ND filters with you. If you like to film in Pro mode and work a lot with it, it is almost a must to work with filters alone because otherwise you cannot work with exposures in a meaningful way.... Especially in summer or in winter when there is snow, I think it should at least be almost mandatory to have ND filters with you. If you like to film in Pro mode and work a lot with it, it is almost a must to work with filters alone because otherwise you cannot work with exposures in a meaningful way....