This is one of a current batch of Chinese-made tripods that all seem to have the same features and basic construction but are sold by different brands on Amazon and elsewhere. When searching for "best inexpensive tripod" on YouTube or elsewhere, you're likely to see these come up repeatedly in top 5 lists or even just on their own, in videos titled things like "the only tripod you'll ever need" or similar. I'm looking at my "customers also viewed" list just below the text box I'm typing this in and there are several more of these nearly identical tripods listed right there, from brands like Smallrig, Neewer, etc.

I didn't quite realize this before buying this tripod, and the "western" sounding brand name made me think this might be the "original" anyway that others were copying. I admit I liked the color accents too. But the very poorly translated instructions (available in both English and Chinese) make it clear that this is just a low budget Chinese product like probably all of them are.

So, generic rebranded Aliexpress product or not, that doesn't mean it's a bad tripod. It's not a bad tripod. It is absolutely not "the only tripod you'll ever need", but it would make a decent travel tripod. It's fairly light and easy to set up, and it seems relatively stable once it's set up. It would honestly blow away in a stiff wind, it's that light, though. And it would clearly wobble, especially because it has no center brace. I was replacing a cheap "Polaroid" tripod (from the not-really Polaroid that currently exists) that actually cost less than this but had thicker metal legs and a center brace - that thing was not going anywhere once it was set up, nor did it wobble at all unless you extended the center column. The problem with that Polaroid is that it didn't have a ball head, and the plastic crank for the center column also broke. This tripod doesn't have a crank like that; you just unscrew the retaining nut on the center column and then pull it up, then screw it back in place.

There is actually a hook on the bottom of the tripod where you can attach a sandbag if you want for better stability, but it's weirdly off-center so it would never be pulling straight down. It probably would work well enough, though.

I do like the ball head and the pan function is nicely dampened - that's going to help a lot in video shoots. The bubble level is borderline useless, though. It will show level when the head is at about a 30 degree angle. The bubble in the level is just so small and moves so little that it's impossible to judge where it really is in the circle unless you are looking literally straight down on it. That's very hard to do if you've got the camera set at eye height. So plan on some other way to judge level. Maybe bring your own little spirit level.

To tighten the ball head there are a couple of screws with plastic nuts on the end. You get an Allen wrench that I guess is meant to tighten the main one onto the screw (it's the only thing it fits into that I can find), but even with the nut fully tightened onto the screw, it flops around a bit. Works fine, but just doesn't feel solid. I am not sure if this is how it's supposed to be or not - it does feel like it's going to break or just fall off, but there's no more tightening that I can do to it. The head itself tightens fine; it's just that plastic nut, but if that breaks or comes off, then there's no way to tighten the head itself.

As a travel tripod, I think this is a pretty good option for the price. If you're a serious photographer or videographer with a heavier camera, I definitely would get a heavier tripod. And if you are going out in the wild, especially in rough weather, make sure you bring a sandbag.

I purchased the camera and assessories to film nature and family vacations/

I like this camera it comes with a case.

The adapter fits smoothly into the EOS bayonet without wobbling (in my case: 6D and Film-EOS 33v). The F bayonet on the lens side is also very nicely made - with many similarly inexpensive adapters, the retaining aluminum lamellae of the F bayonet are only used a slit is cut and then the slats are slightly bent up. The more stable and also more precise solution are of course 3 small leaf springs that press the lens evenly against the bearing surface of the bayonet - as is the case with this adapter.

My Mini3Pro works perfectly with these filters, the gimbal has no problems with them, the box for the filters is sturdy and there is no harm in having spare propellers. They can be changed easily. I don't notice any discoloration from the ND filters in the recording.

That says it all, this set is clearly recommended for the Mini3 Pro. But now the question: For whom are these filters recommended and what for?

Put simply, for anyone who doesn't want a video look but wants a film look on their recordings. What's the difference? In the so-called motion blur.

If you film with the drone on a sunny winter day with snow at noon, the camera adjusts itself to an extremely short exposure time due to the brightness. Each picture is only exposed for one thousandth of a second. If you then pause the video and look at the frames, every single frame is a razor-sharp photo, no matter how fast you're flying. It is this complete sharpness of the individual images that creates the video look that is often perceived as cheap.

Film look has motion blur, ie fast-moving elements in the recording, eg in the foreground when it is very close, are somewhat blurred in the individual images. This makes the rapid movement of objects in the running film smoother for the eye. In the single image, however, you can see the blurring of the fast-moving objects. This type of recording also corresponds more closely to how our eyes see. The picture becomes more natural.

To achieve this effect, you need ND filters. In order to achieve a film look, the rule of thumb is that you should double the number of frames per second and thus get the desired exposure time. So if you're shooting a video at 30 fps, the target exposure time is 1/60th of a second per frame. At 60 fps corresponding to 1/120th etc. This is a guide, you can experiment and get interesting results.

On our clear winter afternoon over snow, far too much light falls into the camera in a 60th of a second and the image is completely overblown. If you now put a high ND filter, for example 64 or even 1000 on the camera, the filter darkens the lens. This allows you to set the camera to a 60th exposure time, less light falls through the filter and the picture looks good... but with the motion blur caused by the 60th second exposure time. When which ND filter is right has to do with experience. In general, a higher number indicates a greater darkening of the lens.

So ND filters are needed if you want to make more natural looking videos that contain fast motion. A good example is when you fly over a rapeseed field with the beautiful yellow flowers at a height of only a few centimeters.

You have to decide for yourself whether you prefer a film look or a video look. Both can have their own appeal. But if you want a film look... I can recommend this filter set.

I simply copied the complete text from my YouTube video for you. Who prefers to see the video "Dji Osmo Action 3 I without ND filter in automatic mode and in PRO mode?" Enter on YouTube. Why do you need filters? It's a valid question, of course, who hasn't asked themselves that? I think everyone has stumbled across this topic and this question... The answer to this is very simple and surprising in view of this video - No, you don't need filters on a camera, it works without it...***but...It would be more an advantage as a disadvantage to have and use some. Anyone who works a lot on the water and beach, like me, or of course, like most of you, vacations there, quickly learns to appreciate filters. First, they are a very good protection against dust or sand from the beach. Of course, a filter also protects the lens, the lens in the camera. So much for the obvious, but the main job of a filter is to let less light through onto the sensor, it's like putting sunglasses on the camera. This has the advantage that longer exposure times can be achieved. It helps the camera to adjust and react faster in automatic mode when controlling the exposure time or white balance. Or if you prefer to work in Pro mode, you will quickly find that the exposure, the shutter, generally works better. In general, filters make the water smoother, and there are also fewer reflections. Or if you take great landscape shots, the sky immediately looks a little bluer. Filters also enhance the colors generally, making them more vibrant. DJI has, in my opinion, excellent colors and that in connection with a filter automatically makes the recordings **//LVL UP. This saves you having to color the film material because it comes out of the camera almost finished. Of course, the full professionals among you have other requirements and such, but I'm talking here for the normal user, like you and me... There are different ND filters. It starts **in my set at ND 4 and goes up to ND32. The ND4 filter lets only ¼ of the light through to the sensor and the ND32 filter 1/32. I use my filters like this... in the morning ND4, towards noon ND8, noon to afternoon ND16 and afternoon to late afternoon when the sun is very high ND32, and then in the evening just before the golden hour I go down again with the filter strengths. Over time, you will figure out when and where which filter is best used, is not witchcraft, even if many want you to believe that. Especially in summer or in winter when there is snow, I think it should at least be almost mandatory to have ND filters to have. If you like to film in Pro mode and work a lot with it, it is almost a must to work with filters alone because otherwise you cannot work with exposures in a meaningful way.... Especially in summer or in winter when there is snow, I think it should at least be almost mandatory to have ND filters with you. If you like to film in Pro mode and work a lot with it, it is almost a must to work with filters alone because otherwise you cannot work with exposures in a meaningful way.... Especially in summer or in winter when there is snow, I think it should at least be almost mandatory to have ND filters with you. If you like to film in Pro mode and work a lot with it, it is almost a must to work with filters alone because otherwise you cannot work with exposures in a meaningful way....

ND filters cause the image to "darken" in order to be able to film at medium exposure rates or larger apertures.
The Osmo Action is of course not a film camera, so I wouldn't say here that NDs are a must - but if you want to film primarily in the SLOG profiles, want to experiment with long exposure (even in the light), try time-lapse recordings or in the snow sun is on the way, he should think about it.

You definitely can't go wrong with the K&F Concept Set. The filters are of incredibly high quality and come in a custom-made case. The case can be closed securely and is flat enough to be stowed in a backpack.
The filters can be changed quickly, which is important because of course you need a different one in the twilight than in the midday sun.

Incidentally, a highlight is the anti-reflective filter, which filters out reflections in the snow or on the water surface, for example. You really get a new perspective with him, which is fun.

Have a digital camera but want a film camera look. buy this