K&F has been a great company that my husband and I always go to when it comes to camera accessories. We used this brand for a similar filter in the 85mm size and now that we have a different lens we went with the 58mm polarizing filter. It's super thin as they say and it works really well. It helps with exposure movement and portrait shots as less light gets into the lens when you're looking for a moodier vibe and reflections are reduced. Kind of acts like an ND filter and adds a little more contrast and color.

bought the polarizing filter for the camera kit of my Xiaomi 14 Ultra. The polarizing filter fits perfectly on the camera kit's adapter. The lens cap is nice to have. I have no experience with these filters, so I can't judge how good or bad this one is compared to others, but picture 4 shows a shot without a filter, picture 3 shows a shot with a filter, and there is a clear difference! More will only become apparent when testing "in the field", but the first impression is very good.

The ND filter set for the GoPro Hero 9 - Hero 11 was well packaged and delivered quickly. The four supplied ND filters should also act as polarizing filters. You can get great results with these filters. Especially on sunny days you catch more details. But the filters are also ideal for water recordings or the like, as metallic reflections are eliminated. I could also see this in my test shots. I had similar experiences with the ND filters. These are like a pair of sunglasses for the camera, the higher the value, the darker the image. When filming in 4K 30fps, the shutter speed should be 1/60 to make the footage look cinematic. However, this is impossible on sunny days, even if the ISO is 100. So it needs an ND filter to darken the image. If you want to record with 60fps, you should set the exposure time to 1/120. This requires an ND filter with a small value. So far I have only used the ND8 and sometimes the ND16 filter on very sunny days. The other filters are only suitable for special applications or for long exposures. I am also satisfied with the processing quality of the filters. They are made of aluminum and glass and are very light. The filters can also be attached and removed without any problems. They also sit very firmly on the camera. Finally, you get inexpensive ND filters with an integrated polarizing filter that help you record the video with the ideal exposure time.

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K&F Concept 77mm True Color Polarizing Filter HD optical glass, double-sided, 30-layer nano-coatings, circular polarizing filter (CPL), aluminum frame, water-resistant, scratch-resistant, fingerprint-proof I use filters... when I have to. Polarizing filters are among the filters that can make a real difference in terms of contrast enhancement/glare reduction in certain lighting conditions. It is important that I find this filter: - Excellent optical properties. Limited sharpness loss. (as good as it gets). - Neutral color - Adjustable polarization by rotating the filter as intended. - Thin. This filter is thin and should not cause vignetting in most cases. For the same reason, it can be combined with another filter without the risk of vignetting. While this is standard these days, it makes removing the filter more difficult than with thicker filters. - The threads are well formed and the filter screws on easily. - The light loss is about 1 stop, which is typical for today's high quality polarizing filters and better than the 2 stops of previous generations. Note for landscape photography: It is not recommended to use a polarizing filter with ultra wide-angle lenses in landscape photography, as they produce an uneven sky. That's a good filter. It performs above its price. Worth considering. Accordingly recommended.

This is my first camera backpack ever, but I knew exactly what I wanted. It should... - of course look good - be of good quality - have space for light luggage/food - functional and have space for my GX80, lenses and filters. It has some really cool details, such as: the closure and the color. The camouflage is rather subtle, which makes it look completely different. It is made of nylon, so it is extremely durable. Anyone who prints this on a 3D printer knows this. It is wonderful to wear, the zippers are very smooth and protected from splash water. A rain cover is included, but unfortunately it is not sewn securely into the ground. My GX80 with 3 lenses, color gradient/polarizing filter fits in easily. It also has a laptop compartment and a lot of storage space, even for longer trips for two. Except for the last one, the photos were all taken with the GX80 and the K&F polarizing filter and were not edited.

My Mini3Pro works perfectly with these filters, the gimbal has no problems with them, the box for the filters is sturdy and there is no harm in having spare propellers. They can be changed easily. I don't notice any discoloration from the ND filters in the recording.

That says it all, this set is clearly recommended for the Mini3 Pro. But now the question: For whom are these filters recommended and what for?

Put simply, for anyone who doesn't want a video look but wants a film look on their recordings. What's the difference? In the so-called motion blur.

If you film with the drone on a sunny winter day with snow at noon, the camera adjusts itself to an extremely short exposure time due to the brightness. Each picture is only exposed for one thousandth of a second. If you then pause the video and look at the frames, every single frame is a razor-sharp photo, no matter how fast you're flying. It is this complete sharpness of the individual images that creates the video look that is often perceived as cheap.

Film look has motion blur, ie fast-moving elements in the recording, eg in the foreground when it is very close, are somewhat blurred in the individual images. This makes the rapid movement of objects in the running film smoother for the eye. In the single image, however, you can see the blurring of the fast-moving objects. This type of recording also corresponds more closely to how our eyes see. The picture becomes more natural.

To achieve this effect, you need ND filters. In order to achieve a film look, the rule of thumb is that you should double the number of frames per second and thus get the desired exposure time. So if you're shooting a video at 30 fps, the target exposure time is 1/60th of a second per frame. At 60 fps corresponding to 1/120th etc. This is a guide, you can experiment and get interesting results.

On our clear winter afternoon over snow, far too much light falls into the camera in a 60th of a second and the image is completely overblown. If you now put a high ND filter, for example 64 or even 1000 on the camera, the filter darkens the lens. This allows you to set the camera to a 60th exposure time, less light falls through the filter and the picture looks good... but with the motion blur caused by the 60th second exposure time. When which ND filter is right has to do with experience. In general, a higher number indicates a greater darkening of the lens.

So ND filters are needed if you want to make more natural looking videos that contain fast motion. A good example is when you fly over a rapeseed field with the beautiful yellow flowers at a height of only a few centimeters.

You have to decide for yourself whether you prefer a film look or a video look. Both can have their own appeal. But if you want a film look... I can recommend this filter set.

I simply copied the complete text from my YouTube video for you. Who prefers to see the video "Dji Osmo Action 3 I without ND filter in automatic mode and in PRO mode?" Enter on YouTube. Why do you need filters? It's a valid question, of course, who hasn't asked themselves that? I think everyone has stumbled across this topic and this question... The answer to this is very simple and surprising in view of this video - No, you don't need filters on a camera, it works without it...***but...It would be more an advantage as a disadvantage to have and use some. Anyone who works a lot on the water and beach, like me, or of course, like most of you, vacations there, quickly learns to appreciate filters. First, they are a very good protection against dust or sand from the beach. Of course, a filter also protects the lens, the lens in the camera. So much for the obvious, but the main job of a filter is to let less light through onto the sensor, it's like putting sunglasses on the camera. This has the advantage that longer exposure times can be achieved. It helps the camera to adjust and react faster in automatic mode when controlling the exposure time or white balance. Or if you prefer to work in Pro mode, you will quickly find that the exposure, the shutter, generally works better. In general, filters make the water smoother, and there are also fewer reflections. Or if you take great landscape shots, the sky immediately looks a little bluer. Filters also enhance the colors generally, making them more vibrant. DJI has, in my opinion, excellent colors and that in connection with a filter automatically makes the recordings **//LVL UP. This saves you having to color the film material because it comes out of the camera almost finished. Of course, the full professionals among you have other requirements and such, but I'm talking here for the normal user, like you and me... There are different ND filters. It starts **in my set at ND 4 and goes up to ND32. The ND4 filter lets only ¼ of the light through to the sensor and the ND32 filter 1/32. I use my filters like this... in the morning ND4, towards noon ND8, noon to afternoon ND16 and afternoon to late afternoon when the sun is very high ND32, and then in the evening just before the golden hour I go down again with the filter strengths. Over time, you will figure out when and where which filter is best used, is not witchcraft, even if many want you to believe that. Especially in summer or in winter when there is snow, I think it should at least be almost mandatory to have ND filters to have. If you like to film in Pro mode and work a lot with it, it is almost a must to work with filters alone because otherwise you cannot work with exposures in a meaningful way.... Especially in summer or in winter when there is snow, I think it should at least be almost mandatory to have ND filters with you. If you like to film in Pro mode and work a lot with it, it is almost a must to work with filters alone because otherwise you cannot work with exposures in a meaningful way.... Especially in summer or in winter when there is snow, I think it should at least be almost mandatory to have ND filters with you. If you like to film in Pro mode and work a lot with it, it is almost a must to work with filters alone because otherwise you cannot work with exposures in a meaningful way....