Handy for older manual film camera with max 1000 or 500/ sec shutter speed to meter in sunny daylight, lens wide open. Metering can be adjusted by turning the ND to meet the correct light exposure at a set shutter-speed and choice DOF (f-stop) combination. Wonderful tool for needle metered or LED array camera where you see the progress of exposure as you turn.

Retractable Rubber hood is the best solution to attach a hood.
Lens cap for a 67mm will be 72mm. I will assume 1 size larger.

I purchased the camera and assessories to film nature and family vacations/

The perfect little camera to have with no matter what what your doing to capture life easy to use and store away thanks

The K&F Concept Adjustable DSLR Camera Hand Strap is a great option for camera users who want to carry their camera safely and comfortably. The lightweight and durable design ensures your camera is held securely, while the adjustable strap allows for a custom fit that's comfortable even during extended use. This wrist strap is compatible with a variety of camera brands and models, making it a versatile option for any photographer.

The clips to release the camera from the straps are very sturdy, but otherwise the strap is nice

My Mini3Pro works perfectly with these filters, the gimbal has no problems with them, the box for the filters is sturdy and there is no harm in having spare propellers. They can be changed easily. I don't notice any discoloration from the ND filters in the recording.

That says it all, this set is clearly recommended for the Mini3 Pro. But now the question: For whom are these filters recommended and what for?

Put simply, for anyone who doesn't want a video look but wants a film look on their recordings. What's the difference? In the so-called motion blur.

If you film with the drone on a sunny winter day with snow at noon, the camera adjusts itself to an extremely short exposure time due to the brightness. Each picture is only exposed for one thousandth of a second. If you then pause the video and look at the frames, every single frame is a razor-sharp photo, no matter how fast you're flying. It is this complete sharpness of the individual images that creates the video look that is often perceived as cheap.

Film look has motion blur, ie fast-moving elements in the recording, eg in the foreground when it is very close, are somewhat blurred in the individual images. This makes the rapid movement of objects in the running film smoother for the eye. In the single image, however, you can see the blurring of the fast-moving objects. This type of recording also corresponds more closely to how our eyes see. The picture becomes more natural.

To achieve this effect, you need ND filters. In order to achieve a film look, the rule of thumb is that you should double the number of frames per second and thus get the desired exposure time. So if you're shooting a video at 30 fps, the target exposure time is 1/60th of a second per frame. At 60 fps corresponding to 1/120th etc. This is a guide, you can experiment and get interesting results.

On our clear winter afternoon over snow, far too much light falls into the camera in a 60th of a second and the image is completely overblown. If you now put a high ND filter, for example 64 or even 1000 on the camera, the filter darkens the lens. This allows you to set the camera to a 60th exposure time, less light falls through the filter and the picture looks good... but with the motion blur caused by the 60th second exposure time. When which ND filter is right has to do with experience. In general, a higher number indicates a greater darkening of the lens.

So ND filters are needed if you want to make more natural looking videos that contain fast motion. A good example is when you fly over a rapeseed field with the beautiful yellow flowers at a height of only a few centimeters.

You have to decide for yourself whether you prefer a film look or a video look. Both can have their own appeal. But if you want a film look... I can recommend this filter set.

Unlikely you'd want to use it with an old EOS film camera, but if you know it didn't work for me, I tried using it on an old EOS 600 film camera and it didn't work. (It focuses but didn't let the camera pick up the shot - manual focus or autofocus) *** It worked fine on a Canon 5D Mark 3. *** I have sold my digital canon gear so I just wanted this inexpensive 35mm lens to go with my inexpensive film camera but unfortunately it didn't work for me. Unfortunately I had to send it back.

I simply copied the complete text from my YouTube video for you. Who prefers to see the video "Dji Osmo Action 3 I without ND filter in automatic mode and in PRO mode?" Enter on YouTube. Why do you need filters? It's a valid question, of course, who hasn't asked themselves that? I think everyone has stumbled across this topic and this question... The answer to this is very simple and surprising in view of this video - No, you don't need filters on a camera, it works without it...***but...It would be more an advantage as a disadvantage to have and use some. Anyone who works a lot on the water and beach, like me, or of course, like most of you, vacations there, quickly learns to appreciate filters. First, they are a very good protection against dust or sand from the beach. Of course, a filter also protects the lens, the lens in the camera. So much for the obvious, but the main job of a filter is to let less light through onto the sensor, it's like putting sunglasses on the camera. This has the advantage that longer exposure times can be achieved. It helps the camera to adjust and react faster in automatic mode when controlling the exposure time or white balance. Or if you prefer to work in Pro mode, you will quickly find that the exposure, the shutter, generally works better. In general, filters make the water smoother, and there are also fewer reflections. Or if you take great landscape shots, the sky immediately looks a little bluer. Filters also enhance the colors generally, making them more vibrant. DJI has, in my opinion, excellent colors and that in connection with a filter automatically makes the recordings **//LVL UP. This saves you having to color the film material because it comes out of the camera almost finished. Of course, the full professionals among you have other requirements and such, but I'm talking here for the normal user, like you and me... There are different ND filters. It starts **in my set at ND 4 and goes up to ND32. The ND4 filter lets only ¼ of the light through to the sensor and the ND32 filter 1/32. I use my filters like this... in the morning ND4, towards noon ND8, noon to afternoon ND16 and afternoon to late afternoon when the sun is very high ND32, and then in the evening just before the golden hour I go down again with the filter strengths. Over time, you will figure out when and where which filter is best used, is not witchcraft, even if many want you to believe that. Especially in summer or in winter when there is snow, I think it should at least be almost mandatory to have ND filters to have. If you like to film in Pro mode and work a lot with it, it is almost a must to work with filters alone because otherwise you cannot work with exposures in a meaningful way.... Especially in summer or in winter when there is snow, I think it should at least be almost mandatory to have ND filters with you. If you like to film in Pro mode and work a lot with it, it is almost a must to work with filters alone because otherwise you cannot work with exposures in a meaningful way.... Especially in summer or in winter when there is snow, I think it should at least be almost mandatory to have ND filters with you. If you like to film in Pro mode and work a lot with it, it is almost a must to work with filters alone because otherwise you cannot work with exposures in a meaningful way....