I'm a tripod guy - I have at least a dozen. I have compact models for travel, large rugged models when I need a rugged model, carbon fiber, aluminum and a combination. After using this tripod a few times, you'll find that whoever designed it took the best qualities of several tripods and combined them here - although some have escaped them.

All dials and buttons are aluminum, not plastic. This is really nice and adds years to the life of the tripod. Plastic buttons eventually break. They break if bumped too hard. Aluminum has dents or scratches, but it doesn't shatter like plastic.

All hardware (connecting screws, nuts, bolts) is rust-free.

The included ball head is pretty damn nice too. It has the thicker 3/8-24 thread typical of a tripod head. The plate is an Arca-Swiss style sliding plate and the camera screw has a built in thumb lock for hand tightening. No tools (or coins) are required. The plate can be detached and slid back and forth, but will not slip off the head. It takes almost two full turns of the locking knob to fully disengage the panel. Kind. There is also a built-in soap scale. The ball mechanism is in a Teflon pocket and is therefore smooth-running.

At the top of the tripod (where the head attaches) is a reversible screw - 1/4-20 for cameras or 3/8-24 for tripod heads. The top orange collar ensures it stays in place. It's all hand tightened, so it's possible to twist the ball head off without realizing it. There are no locking screws to fix the tripod head. The best way to attach the head is to remove the double ended screw and collar. On the tripod head, loosen the large locking wheel and move the plate to the 45-degree position (so it sticks in the notch.) Turn the tripod mounting screw until it stops — it's actually pushing against the ball at this point. Now turn up the orange collar. Loosen the screw half a turn. Tighten the collar as tight as possible (no tools!) Now twist and tighten on your head. You'll find that it's a lot harder to accidentally spin off.

Anyway, a great tripod, a little heavier compared to compact or carbon fiber models, but a good choice for all-round use. Also, it is very convenient to switch to a monopod in less than a minute.

I bought the K&F magnetic CPL filter to mount on a Sony 18-105 lens. Although the filter is excellently made (even the magnet attaches well to the support ring), the main problem is that the lens cap (72mm diameter) does not attach to either the filter or the support ring, leaving the glasses unprotected. The return has begun.

It's a well-made adapter that works perfectly, both on the lens mount and on the camera. The only negative is the ring, which locks and releases the exposure, allowing the rotation to rotate with minimal force applied, causing the ring to rotate unintentionally. There should be more resistance. Besides, quality and price are good product.

If the crush ring is not attached in the Lock position, the aperture blade will not move in the Open position. The EOS M-mount adapter is built better than the SONY E-mount adapter with just the narrower pin (laughs), but despite the fact that the body is too small, the lens weighs quite a bit. So if it is not an adapter with a tripod seat, the mount and the camera screw will be put under enormous stress. Most importantly, FD adapters don't require any tools, and there are few things that detach the tripod seat, so that's an issue.

The integrated K&F adapter collar also enables the aperture to be set manually with the Nikon AF zoom lens. Unfortunately no aperture scaling. Processing is high quality and a perfect fit.

NIK-NIK Z-Ring single ring, without coupling: Nikon Z-mount male mount, Nikon F-mount mount female for pre-AI, AI and AIS lenses. You can therefore use old lenses whose pre-AI bayonet can damage the FTZ. No problem with a Nikon Z: the light is measured at the actual aperture and manual focusing is done with colored markings in the viewfinder. So I use my old 50mm 1.4, my 20mm 3.5 UD, my 300 4.5 Nikkor H which are all 50 years old... and my AI 50.135 and 200. The ring is well built, no play and we have infinity. NIK(G)-NIK Z-Ring Attention, for Nikon G lenses you need the Nikon FTZ or the NIK(G)-NIK Z-Ring, which allows you to maneuver the aperture, which do not have a ring on the lens. With the NIK-NIK Z, the G lens remains closed at the smallest aperture, so no modification is possible. Attention should also be paid to the IBIS: you need to record the focal length of the manual lens and specify it when using the camera: vibration compensation is much more effective if the Z camera knows the focal length.

had bought a Fuji X-T10 mirrorless camera and was waiting for a Fuji lens to arrive so I could use it. I had a Nikon 35mm g at home and I was thinking about using it on my Fuji while waiting for the proprietary lens. After careful research I have ordered this wonderful adapter which I will try to describe below. It arrived in a small cardboard box wrapped in shockproof plastic. The adapter is made of excellent material, it is made entirely of metal and is pleasing to the eye. It can be installed easily and quickly on both sides. It has a metal ring that is used to close and open the membrane. That last feature deserves an explanation: the adapter has no electrical contacts, so any lens you mount will lose autofocus. If you mount a lens that is equipped with an aperture ring, you can use it without any problems because the adapter does not interfere with this ring. On the other hand, if you mount a lens without an aperture ring, as in my case, you can have trouble selecting the apertures that the mirrorless camera actually no longer shows on the display. However, this adapter features a ring for minimal control of the diaphragms. To get the best out of it, before mounting the lens, make sure the adapter ring is fully closed (smaller ball), then mount the lens. Then mount the adapter on the camera. In the case of the XT-10, I had to select non-lens speech noise from the settings menu and that was it. Despite the lack of autofocus and minimal control over the apertures, I took wonderful photos. Highly recommended for those who are already experts at manual focusing.

This adapter is used to use an A-mount lens on E-mount cameras (in my case a Sony Alpha 6100).
The construction is good, it weighs just enough to notice that it is a quality product, it works perfectly.

You have to keep in mind that with the adapter you will have to use everything manually, that is, manual focus is obvious, but something I did not know is that the adapter comes with a ring to close or open the diaphragm but it does not show the step diaphragm (1.8, 2.8, 3.5, etc).
In the camera as you move the ring it will not appear which diaphragm is being used either, specifically in my camera it says F/0.0, even so, you can use the aperture priority mode and the camera calculates the shutter speed without problems.