Very practical little bag when you don't want to take your backpack, it is large enough to accommodate my A7IV and a small Kodak without forcing the closure, the quality is excellent, plenty of storage space. very wide strap, and pleasant to wear without being annoying Good product to go light!

Handy for older manual film camera with max 1000 or 500/ sec shutter speed to meter in sunny daylight, lens wide open. Metering can be adjusted by turning the ND to meet the correct light exposure at a set shutter-speed and choice DOF (f-stop) combination. Wonderful tool for needle metered or LED array camera where you see the progress of exposure as you turn.

Retractable Rubber hood is the best solution to attach a hood.
Lens cap for a 67mm will be 72mm. I will assume 1 size larger.

To replace my tripod head that was starting to not hold the weight of my kodak anymore she is really tough!!!
The plate is compatible with my old quick release fak it's perfect!
I advise to check the tightening of the plate on the ball joint because I had to put a tork to stabilize it (the Allen key is provided!)

I purchased the camera and assessories to film nature and family vacations/

I bought this and the Kodak 52mm ND filter for my Moondog Labs Anamorphic Lens and shot on my iPhone 12 Pro Max. I thought I could save $14 by settling for the cheaper Kodak ND filter but the image quality couldn't compete with the K&F one. Compared to the K&F filter, the Kodak has a greener cast, washes out colors, isn't uniform, and X-patterns A LOT earlier than the K&F Concept so the Kodak is not true ND2000. I went out on a bright day and with the Kodak filter I couldn't even get the highlights to be saved before a severe X-pattern started showing up. Locked shutter to 1/48 and ISO to as low as possible. The K&F filter also X-patterns a lot nicer too. When the K&F starts showing the X-pattern, it actually looks like a nice vignetting because it's so smooth. The Kodak filter looks too harsh like a hard X. No edge feathering (I don't know if that makes sense). I don't know how to explain it but you can buy both and see for yourself. The X is really wide and smooth on the K&F and it's even hard to tell it's X-patterning when you start reaching it's limit. Another thing I noticed is that the Kodak filter doesn't darken the entire frame. The left and right edges are brighter than the center whereas the K&F is uniform. I really wanted to like the Kodak as it comes in better packaging, but the filter just doesn't perform well. I LOVE the aluminum packing Kodak used for their filter, but the K&F Concept ND filter is the CLEAR WINNER.

My Mini3Pro works perfectly with these filters, the gimbal has no problems with them, the box for the filters is sturdy and there is no harm in having spare propellers. They can be changed easily. I don't notice any discoloration from the ND filters in the recording.

That says it all, this set is clearly recommended for the Mini3 Pro. But now the question: For whom are these filters recommended and what for?

Put simply, for anyone who doesn't want a video look but wants a film look on their recordings. What's the difference? In the so-called motion blur.

If you film with the drone on a sunny winter day with snow at noon, the camera adjusts itself to an extremely short exposure time due to the brightness. Each picture is only exposed for one thousandth of a second. If you then pause the video and look at the frames, every single frame is a razor-sharp photo, no matter how fast you're flying. It is this complete sharpness of the individual images that creates the video look that is often perceived as cheap.

Film look has motion blur, ie fast-moving elements in the recording, eg in the foreground when it is very close, are somewhat blurred in the individual images. This makes the rapid movement of objects in the running film smoother for the eye. In the single image, however, you can see the blurring of the fast-moving objects. This type of recording also corresponds more closely to how our eyes see. The picture becomes more natural.

To achieve this effect, you need ND filters. In order to achieve a film look, the rule of thumb is that you should double the number of frames per second and thus get the desired exposure time. So if you're shooting a video at 30 fps, the target exposure time is 1/60th of a second per frame. At 60 fps corresponding to 1/120th etc. This is a guide, you can experiment and get interesting results.

On our clear winter afternoon over snow, far too much light falls into the camera in a 60th of a second and the image is completely overblown. If you now put a high ND filter, for example 64 or even 1000 on the camera, the filter darkens the lens. This allows you to set the camera to a 60th exposure time, less light falls through the filter and the picture looks good... but with the motion blur caused by the 60th second exposure time. When which ND filter is right has to do with experience. In general, a higher number indicates a greater darkening of the lens.

So ND filters are needed if you want to make more natural looking videos that contain fast motion. A good example is when you fly over a rapeseed field with the beautiful yellow flowers at a height of only a few centimeters.

You have to decide for yourself whether you prefer a film look or a video look. Both can have their own appeal. But if you want a film look... I can recommend this filter set.

Unlikely you'd want to use it with an old EOS film camera, but if you know it didn't work for me, I tried using it on an old EOS 600 film camera and it didn't work. (It focuses but didn't let the camera pick up the shot - manual focus or autofocus) *** It worked fine on a Canon 5D Mark 3. *** I have sold my digital canon gear so I just wanted this inexpensive 35mm lens to go with my inexpensive film camera but unfortunately it didn't work for me. Unfortunately I had to send it back.

I simply copied the complete text from my YouTube video for you. Who prefers to see the video "Dji Osmo Action 3 I without ND filter in automatic mode and in PRO mode?" Enter on YouTube. Why do you need filters? It's a valid question, of course, who hasn't asked themselves that? I think everyone has stumbled across this topic and this question... The answer to this is very simple and surprising in view of this video - No, you don't need filters on a camera, it works without it...***but...It would be more an advantage as a disadvantage to have and use some. Anyone who works a lot on the water and beach, like me, or of course, like most of you, vacations there, quickly learns to appreciate filters. First, they are a very good protection against dust or sand from the beach. Of course, a filter also protects the lens, the lens in the camera. So much for the obvious, but the main job of a filter is to let less light through onto the sensor, it's like putting sunglasses on the camera. This has the advantage that longer exposure times can be achieved. It helps the camera to adjust and react faster in automatic mode when controlling the exposure time or white balance. Or if you prefer to work in Pro mode, you will quickly find that the exposure, the shutter, generally works better. In general, filters make the water smoother, and there are also fewer reflections. Or if you take great landscape shots, the sky immediately looks a little bluer. Filters also enhance the colors generally, making them more vibrant. DJI has, in my opinion, excellent colors and that in connection with a filter automatically makes the recordings **//LVL UP. This saves you having to color the film material because it comes out of the camera almost finished. Of course, the full professionals among you have other requirements and such, but I'm talking here for the normal user, like you and me... There are different ND filters. It starts **in my set at ND 4 and goes up to ND32. The ND4 filter lets only ¼ of the light through to the sensor and the ND32 filter 1/32. I use my filters like this... in the morning ND4, towards noon ND8, noon to afternoon ND16 and afternoon to late afternoon when the sun is very high ND32, and then in the evening just before the golden hour I go down again with the filter strengths. Over time, you will figure out when and where which filter is best used, is not witchcraft, even if many want you to believe that. Especially in summer or in winter when there is snow, I think it should at least be almost mandatory to have ND filters to have. If you like to film in Pro mode and work a lot with it, it is almost a must to work with filters alone because otherwise you cannot work with exposures in a meaningful way.... Especially in summer or in winter when there is snow, I think it should at least be almost mandatory to have ND filters with you. If you like to film in Pro mode and work a lot with it, it is almost a must to work with filters alone because otherwise you cannot work with exposures in a meaningful way.... Especially in summer or in winter when there is snow, I think it should at least be almost mandatory to have ND filters with you. If you like to film in Pro mode and work a lot with it, it is almost a must to work with filters alone because otherwise you cannot work with exposures in a meaningful way....