this is a great item and it works well if you want to use it to Mount your phone and capture what you're seeing. if you're an blogger or whatever, this is a great gadget to have. I just wish it was a little adjustable in how low it hangs down.

I appreciated that the phone mount wasn't a snap on but actually an adjustable one. It gets to be so tall and the tripod is very stable. I can easily tilt the phone to get a better angle. The remote works so easily and I liked that it has an on/off switch so it won't connect to your phone by mistake. I think it is a very useful tripod for video creators on the go.

I took this ring to mount an M42 Helios on my Z6 and it's perfect, there is no play between the two bindings. Light and compact, the material is the usual for most of the rings they make, a recommended product, the only flaw in my opinion is the price a bit excessive.

First impressions: - good looking - fine workmanship - matte interior finish (light doesn't jump in) - smooth conformance to camera body - smooth shift rotating One ring - comes in an unsealed hard case and nothing else on it - out of the box with any vintage Nikon mount usable lenses - orange ring gives the looks to the whole camera setup - the adapter fits harder on the lenses (needs to be attached) - focus is based more on the depth of field (FOD) difference in the picture frame - it works more like zone focusing and precession focus zones are heavy to reach - metal mount on lens side and (I think it's still a metal) black plastic which looks nice, camera charcoal mount (it's passive adapter and therefore no electrical communication between lens and camera) - light doesn't get through the adapter into the Barrel (sealed fit) - it should come with end caps to the adapter to keep dust out when not in use - for the money I paid I like experimenting with my old lenses on the Sony mirrorless body

NIK-NIK Z-Ring single ring, without coupling: Nikon Z-mount male mount, Nikon F-mount mount female for pre-AI, AI and AIS lenses. You can therefore use old lenses whose pre-AI bayonet can damage the FTZ. No problem with a Nikon Z: the light is measured at the actual aperture and manual focusing is done with colored markings in the viewfinder. So I use my old 50mm 1.4, my 20mm 3.5 UD, my 300 4.5 Nikkor H which are all 50 years old... and my AI 50.135 and 200. The ring is well built, no play and we have infinity. NIK(G)-NIK Z-Ring Attention, for Nikon G lenses you need the Nikon FTZ or the NIK(G)-NIK Z-Ring, which allows you to maneuver the aperture, which do not have a ring on the lens. With the NIK-NIK Z, the G lens remains closed at the smallest aperture, so no modification is possible. Attention should also be paid to the IBIS: you need to record the focal length of the manual lens and specify it when using the camera: vibration compensation is much more effective if the Z camera knows the focal length.

The picture quality was great making it easy to see what you are looking at. I was worried that the camera would only see right in front of the lens but I could also see further out and the light was bright enough which was a big plus. The side view lens helped seeing to the side if needed while moving the probe forward. I bought this Endoscope camera to help me put in a light running electrical wires from ceiling to wall on a two story house. Cutting small holes in drywall and looking before drilling holes saved me as ABS piping, and wiring were in the wall and could of become a major job and added cost if I had drilled thru them. After using this tool I only cut where necessary with smaller holes in drywall which makes it easier to patch. One thing I noticed when inserting the probe into the wall you didn't know the rotation of the image you were looking at. I used tape and marked the tape with a line so when I inserted the probe into the wall I knew left was left and right was right. Very happy with the way this job turned out. I also used the Endoscope to look at the jets in my inground spa. I wanted to find out why some of the jets were not working so I wanted to remove them for cleanout if necessary. I wasn't sure how the jets were to be removed so being able to see inside the jet tube I could see that a plastic nut was there and could be unscrewed. Crazy how far back the jet were in the tube but knowing your not going to damage anything and again could be costly for the DIYer if you cannot see what your doing. This Endoscope is better than the one my buddy got and paid more for. Very happy and glad I got this item. It has already paid for itself.

Most scopes come with much less snake-light length, this camera is water tight and reaches more than 15 feet. I'm remodeling a kitchen and this scope has come in handy for both electrical and plumbing. I do simple electrical stuff like adding a switch for my disposal. But, when things should be easy and aren't I get frustrated. I should have been able to fish a wire 3' up the wall but there was a horizontal block in the framing. Instead of struggling to figure it out the scope clearly showed me what was in the wall, and once you can see what's what, then you can deal with it. great tool!

I use the 67mm version of this filter. Since there are no external threads to mount a hood (I use this with a stepup ring for other lens sizes), I use a 67mm Amazon product ($9.50 for two) "67mm Camera Lens Hood - Rubber - Set of 2 - Collapsible in 3 Steps - Sun Shade/Shield", Mount the rubber hood BEFORE the VND, fold the rubber back over the lens, then mount the VND, set it where I want it, then pull the rubber hood out over the VND adjustment ring. A little awkward, but it works.